Its been a while

Its been over a year I think since my last blog.  For those of you who read my blog I appologize.  In the last year I have moved from the East coast to Calgary.  Taken over as Executive Chef of Rush Restaurant, and recently added Vintage Chophouse to my list of duties.

So now I find myself as Executive Chef of two very large operations.  I now have a son who is almost 16 months old and I’m trying to find a place of balance between my work life and my personal life.  This is something that as Chef’s we struggle with in a huge way.  To become a Chef at the top of your game you have to spend years working long hours(like 12 to 18 a day) And in the process you turn you back on family and friends.  It sounds strange but it is the reality of what we do.

A few years ago when I got married I started making an effort to scale back my hours they, dropped down to 12 hours per day on average and then 10.  Thats kind of where I hover now, some days a little more some a little less.  You would think with two restaurants I would be working more but the truth is,  both operations are so large that I have full teams including Chef de Cuisines at both places and a few Sous Chefs.

My cooking career has turned more into a role as a facilitator.  Someone who mentors and guides young chefs and gives them the tools and resources that they require to be successful.  To be honest I kind of like my new roles.  I still feel guilty every day that Im not there from opening until closing, but I know that if I were I would have to give up my family.

Its a crazy job that we do as Chefs, for some reason so many people look up to us and think that what we do is glamorous.  Truth is it’s a lot of fun, but it can ruin the rest of your life if your not careful.  So where does that leave me now.  For now I’m happy with whats going on, I have great teams that I work with and I think that I can make time to write something interesting every now and again.

the daily special

Three words that kind of scare me when I go to a restaurant are “The Daily Special”.  From my experience this is usually made up of things that need to move.  Product that is left over etc.  The same can be said for the daily soup.  9.5 times out of 10 it is made with product that must go.  What better way than to puree it into a soup right?  I always enjoy when the menu states “soup de jour the chefs daily inspiration with seasonal ingredients” or some other load of crap like that.  There are some circumstances when the menu changes daily or the regular menu is small so the chef makes a few daily features, these I like.  For me as a chef I find that having to do a daily feature does one of two things.  Either it takes away from me being able to work on my regular menu items or it is something that I throw together just because my owner thinks we need a daily feature.  I would rather take the time to do all of my regular stuff fresh and perfect every day and focus on making what I have even better.  My advice is be careful about ordering the daily special.  It’s not likely the best thing on the menu.

The Great Canadian Chef, an endangered species.y

It is no secret that in today’s society the celebrity chef is a very mysterious and revered specimen.  With a gazillion tv shows highlighting the brilliance of chefs and the exciting life they live it’s no wonder there are thousands of people wanting to become one.

The truth is the only place where there is a growing number of chef’s is in the home.  There is certainly no shortage of house chefs these days, everyone has a secret recipe for the best chicken, or steak or salad, trust me I’ve heard them.  The problem is that house chef doesn’t transfer very well to restaurant chef.  To be completely honest there is really very little in common.  Sure a restaurant chef is supposed to know how to cook but we all know this isn’t always the case.

I’ve had the pleasure of working all over Canada, literally from coast to coast and everywhere in between.  What I have seen is not too promising.  Truth be told the restaurant industry is experiencing a horrible talent shortage.

There are still people out there who want to become a famous chef and head off to cooking school to learn the way.  The problem is that when it’s time to get to work they get more than they expected.  Working in a proper kitchen is a lot of pressure.  There are dozens of things going on at once and you usually have a chef standing over your shoulder yelling at you to do it again.  Ever seen “Hell’s Kitchen”?  That’s not just for show.

There are many reports that blame a strong economy and growing industry for the shortage of cooks.  This may in fact be the cause of the people shortage, but the lack of “Chefs” is a combination of factors.  Many “Restaurateurs” are willing to hire, promote, and pay an individual well beyond what they are worth and what they are capable of.  Rarely is this successful.  The effect of this is that many restaurants today are moving towards “convenience foods”.  It is cheaper to buy pre cut salad or powder hollandaise than it is to hire and train someone to do it properly.  I think this is a situation where the effect is actually the cause of the problem.  These restaurants may in fact be making it worse for the industry by not providing an opportunity for young chef’s to learn proper skills

If you are someone who enjoys going to a great restaurant don’t worry, it’s not hopeless.  The answer is simple.  Step one, everyone who has never worked in a restaurant before and has no idea what it really takes to operate one, stop trying to operate one.  Step two, all of you who go to restaurants, start questioning what you are being served and demand quality prepared food.  That means refusing to eat food that comes frozen in a bag and thrown in the microwave and slopped on a plate with a sauce that was a powder only minutes before.  Step three, I’m not sure what that is yet but steps one and two are a good start.

Trust me when I say that if we don’t do something soon, there may come a day when we can’t enjoy a quiet evening in a restaurant for all the microwaves beeping in the kitchen.

Remember, good food…it’s all about the details.

Autumn squash and Maritime seafood Chowder

Autumn squash and Maritime seafood Chowder

INGREDIENTS:

yield 4 ptns

• ½ lb or 225g shrimp (uncooked) peeled and devained(or lobster meat)
• ½ lb or 225g fresh mussels ( steamed in white wine until open, remove meat)      reserve juice
• ½ lb fresh fish cubed ( salmon, trout, haddock)
• 1 carrot, peeled and cut into rounds
• 1 celery stalk, sliced
• 1 onion, cut into wedges
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled
• 1 leek, white part only, thinly sliced
• 3 cup or 750 ml peeled and diced butternut squash
• 2 tbsp or 30 ml unsalted butter
• 1 tbsp or 15 ml Pernod
• 5 cups or 1250ml  water or fish stock
• 1 sachet filled with:1 star anise,4 cloves,1 cinnamon stick
• Pinch fresh grated nutmeg
• 1/4 cup or 62ml  35% cream
• Salt and pepper

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a saucepan, soften the leek carrot, celery, onion and garlic in 30 ml (2 tablespoons) Add the squash, pernod, water, cream, mussel juice, sachet of spices. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until the squash is tender, about 15 minutes. Remove the sachet, in a blender, purée the soup until smooth. Adjust the seasoning. In the sauce pot put the shrimp, fish and mussels, pour the soup back over and simmer until the seafood is cooked about 2 minutes.  Ladle the soup into bowls.

Plain Old Squash

When you go to the market these days the displays are painted with vibrant colors of Autumn, bright oranges and shades of yellow.  Large vegetables made up of funny shapes and textures in baskets blanket the landscape of the farmers markets and the grocery stores.

There is certainly no shortage of squash varieties this time of year, each of them proudly displaying different flavors and personalities to quench our culinary playfulness.  For all that it has to offer, can we honestly say that we really appreciate the squash for what it is?  I’m sure that there are a number of people who can honestly say they adore the squash in all of its glory, but for the most part I believe that the squash is one of the most underappreciated miss-used vegetables we have. Well maybe that’s where the problem begins because technically it’s not a vegetable at all but in fact a fruit.

The squash has been used by humans for thousands of years in a variety of applications.  Depending on your cultural upbringing and of course your desire to try something new you may have seen this fall friend of ours prepared in a wide range of dishes from the savory to the sweet and sublime.  Most people have a great recipe for pumpkin pie, squash soup or baked squash, but that doesn’t even scratch the surface of what this fruit is fully capable of.

In the restaurant we use squash for dishes such as pumpkin crème brule, squash consommé, even a crazy little thing called pumpkin pearls.  I find my self often preparing some sort of squash extravaganza to be paired with any variety of meats including venison, bison, even moose.  On the other end of the food spectrum we use squash to marry well with lobster, mussels, shrimp, crab and scallops.  Squash also works really well with spices such as curry or star anise and cinnamon.  Rarely can you find a fruit or vegetable that actually benefits from such a wide group of flavors, textures and preparations.

Next time you’re strolling past the big and beautiful display of squash maybe have another look.  If you trying to find something interesting to cook at your next dinner party you will be hard pressed to find a more versatile and forgiving product than squash.  It’s not plain old squash anymore; it’s unique, versatile and interesting squash.

The Disappointment of change

 

When I first started working in restaurants in my early teens I didn’t take note of what attracted me to the business.  I know now it wasn’t because I loved to cook, or because I needed the money.  I started working in restaurants because it was always a magical experience to go out for dinner.  I was so fascinated by the expertly choreographed ballet of servers and curious about what happened behind the scenes in the mysterious cave that was called a kitchen. 

     When I left home and began to travel, working in restaurants and eating in restaurants, my appreciation for the dining culture grew. With many restaurants came new experiences and flavors that I could never imagine.  Learning how to drink wine and appreciate the nuances of ingredients and textures that I had never seen before. 

     For me I generally enjoy any restaurant experience.  There are a few notable exceptions, however I generally appreciate it for what it is. You may find it shocking but not everyone that goes to a restaurant is happy with their experience.  Many people in fact seem to get disappointed when a certain type of restaurant doesn’t serve the dish that they always have. 

     When I go out for breakfast I always order 2 eggs over easy with bacon and brown toast.  If for some reason I went to a breakfast restaurant and was told “I’m sorry we don’t serve fried eggs here” I might fall out of my chair.  But occasionally there is a special little breakfast restaurant where you go for a different experience.  Where everything is different than what you expect and it challenges your senses and memories.

     The point I am trying to make is this.  What I want to do as a chef is only governed by what my guests can handle.  Not what they expect and in some cases not even what they want.  In the process of being a cook I also see my self as someone to introduce culture, ideas and experiences to a community that may not even know that that’s what they need.  If you truly enjoy the experience that is dining, than it is almost always a great experience.  On the other hand if you have difficulty accepting that not every high end restaurant serves shrimp cocktail, pepper steak and Caesar salad than you may be disappointed.

 

Society and things in it change for a reason; like a wise man once told me “we don’t sail across the ocean in schooners anymore for a reason”.

Bread pudding with bananas and glazed donuts and Jack Daniels Caramel Sauce:

 

yield: Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients

·        1/3 cup / 83 ml raisins

·        2 tbsp / 30 ml plus 1/4 cup / 62.3 ml Jack Daniels

• 2 tbsp / 30 ml (1/4 stick)  unsalted butter
• 3 bananas, peeled, halved crosswise and then lengthwise
• 5 tbsp / 75 ml sugar
• 2 cups / 500 ml 35% whipping cream
• 4 large eggs
• 1 tsp / 5 ml vanilla extract
• 8 oz/ 224 g glazed plain donuts cut in half
• 1/2 cup / 125 ml chopped toasted pecans (about 2 oz / 56 g)

Jack Daniels sauce:

• 1/4 cup / 62.5 ml (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup / 125 ml 35 % whipping cream
• 1/2 cup / 125 ml packed dark brown sugar
• Pinch of salt
• 2 tbsp / 30 ml Jack Daniels

 

 Method:
Combine raisins and 2 tablespoons JD in a small bowl for 20 minutes.

Melt 2 tbsp/30 ml butter in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add bananas and 2 tbsp/30 ml of sugar and cook until bananas are tender, about 2 minutes per side. Remove from heat.

Combine whipping cream, eggs, vanilla extract and remaining 1/4 cup/62 ml of JD and 3 tbsp/45 ml of sugar in a medium bowl and whisk to blend.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9X5X3-inch loaf pan. Arrange 1/3 of the donuts cut in half crosswise in bottom of prepared pan. Arrange 6 banana pieces on top of the donuts. Sprinkle with half of raisins and half of pecans. Arrange 1/3 of the donuts cut in half crosswise on top of the bananas. Pour half of egg mixture over. Arrange remaining banana pieces atop bread. Sprinkle with remaining raisins and pecans. Arrange remaining donuts crosswise atop bananas. Pour remaining egg mixture over. Press gently on top layer to compact. Let stand 15 minutes.

Bake until puffed and golden and knife inserted into center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Transfer to rack and cool slightly.

Cut bread pudding into slices. Arrange on plates; drizzle with warm JD Sauce and serve.

Method JD Sauce (Makes about 1 cup):
Melt butter in heavy pan over medium-high heat. Add cream, sugar and salt. Bring to boil, stirring until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat. Stir in JD.

Lobster Pierogies Recipe

Lobster Pierogies

For the Filling

Ingredients
2 lbs yellow skin potatoes ( like Yukon gold) peeled and quartered                                           2 lbs chopped Atlantic lobster meat
1/2 lbs butter                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 
½ tsp truffle oil (optional)                                                                                                        
2 tbsp chopped fresh chives

2 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon

Salt and pepper to taste

For the Pierogies Dough

Ingredients:
2 cup flour
4 ounces sour cream
2 ounces butter
1 egg
1 tbsp chopped fresh chives
Salt and pepper to taste

Directions for the Dough

1. Place flour in bowl and form a well.
2. Add remaining ingredients and mix by hand.
3. Form in a ball, wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

 

Directions for the pierogies
1.Roll dough to 1/8 inch thick. Cut the dough into 2-inch circles. Wrap and set aside.
2.Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender and drain. Place through ricer and fold in the truffle oil, butter, tarragon and chives.
3. Fold in the lobster meat. Season with salt and pepper.

Stuff and pinch cook enjoy!

How do you know what spices to use?

This is one of the most common questions that I get as a chef.  My answer is usually the same and it goes like this.  “  Well, what is the best way to eat a beautiful fresh tomato from you garden?  With a little salt and maybe pepper.  So when it comes to cooking I have a few basic thoughts.  The best quality, fresh products, prepared simply and with respect.” 

That’s the short answer, but to be honest I do have a number of “go to” spices and herbs that I like to use in various aplications.  Keep in mind depending on the style of cooking that I am into at that moment, the flavours have a tendency to change. 

Some of my favourite herbs and spices are star anise, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, fresh ginger, lemon grass, kaffir lime, tarragon, chives, flat leaf parsley, cilantro, thyme, mint, dill.  I also like using interesting peppers like long pepper, sarawak pepper cubebe pepper.

Now how should we use herbs and spices? Well the first thing to remember is take it easy.  The primary flavour in any dish should be the main ingredients.  Also don’t go crazy on too many types of spices or herbs.  There are certain spices that go with certain foods.  A good book to check out for flavour pairing is called “Culinary Artistry” 

Another simple rule that I follow but has some exceptions is; lighter foods such as fish, salads and vegetables are better with the soft herbs, while the hard herbs(rosemary and thyme) can be used with meat.  The heavier red meat stands up better to the strong flavours. 

One last note.  When you are using fresh herbs, try and put them in near or at the end of cooking so you don’t lose all of the flavour.  Dry herbs and spices, need to go in around the beginning so you get the flavours out.

So how do I know what spices to use?  I guess the best answer is practice.

how to buy good kitchen knives

Frequently people, home cooks and aspiring proffesional ask me about what kind of knives are the best for them to buy.  So here is a quick insight into the world of kitchen knives.  The first thing you need to know is you really only need two maybe three knives.  Unless you like to collect them or have some really specific uses that require them you can pretty much work your way through any kitchen task with one of three knives.

The three types of knives that every cook needs are:

1.  A chef’s knife  around 8 inches

2. A paring knife less than 4 inches

3.  A serated knife ( preferably with an offset handle)

Now what brand of knives are best?  This question is not really answerable.  But I will give you some suggestions.  First of all there are basically two ways that kitchen knives are made.  The first is called stamping.  They take a piece of metal and stamp out the shape of the blade.  This type of knife is usually fairly inexpensive and very easy to sharpen.  It may not stay as sharp as long as a forged knife, but for household use and rookies in the kitchen it’s the way to go.  Some brands that I would recomend for a stamped knife are Victorinox from Switzerland and Grohmann which are made in Nova Scotia.

The second process for making knives is called forging or a forged steel knife.  Basically what they do is pound and fold the metal making many different layers so it is very strong and keeps an edge really well.  There are different types of metals and combinations of metal they use and this impacts the overall quality of the knife.  A little bit of research on your part into the type of steel used might be necessary.

Now what type of forged knife would I recomend.  Well they get a little pricey, but first of all what I don’t recomend is Wustoff or Henkel.  Mostly a personal prefferance but to be honest bang for your buck there are way better knives on the market.  My suggestion is simple.  Japanese.  Do a bit of research but Japanese knives are the best.  They have taken the methods for making samurai swords and tranfered that into knives.  Thousands of years of craftsmanship, it’s crazy to think about it.

So thats the short version, if you want some suggestions about where to find Japanese knives just ask,  I have some go too spots.